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S.S. Beatrice

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Beatrice is the first vessel to be converted into one of Uniworld's signature "Super Ships," a superior class boasting redesigned accommodation, upgraded technology and signature features such as a grand central staircase. Formerly sailing as River Beatrice, the slightly renamed and vastly redesigned S.S. Beatrice is virtually unrecognizable. For a start, it's grown a few feet in length to install a sleeker hull. All public rooms and accommodation interiors have been transformed, and dining and bar options doubled. Unlike other Super Ships, however, Beatrice has no pool or mini-cinema.

The addition of three larger suites and four cabins reconfigured as connecting family rooms, has reduced capacity from 156 to 152 passengers. Our early-season sailing had only 97 passengers and 56 crew, so we were lavished with attention. The ever-professional crew made such a difference to everyone's enjoyment. From the captain, the cruise manager, restaurant manager and hotel manager to the delightful waiters, bartenders and impeccable housekeeping, Beatrice's team is hard to beat.

A sign of the times: The Captain's Lounge, which housed a small library, is gone to make way for the modern Max's, where every table has USB ports and international power points to plug in and charge phones, iPads and Kindles. Max's hosts cooking classes (for an extra fee), while its bar is completely overlooked; there is no entertainment so many passengers didn't know it exists. More popular is Schubert's, a complimentary, Austrian-style café. Much of the outdoor deck at the bow has been reclaimed for this lovely, indoor alternative to the main restaurant.

The 2018 renovation, undertaken by designers from Red Carnation Hotels (Uniworld's sister brand), addresses style and comfort in equal measures. The overriding feeling is one of lightness and brightness as sunshine streams in through panoramic windows onto the light wood and blue décor. New furniture and divine beds make everything literally comfortable. Adding to this appeal are special touches, most notably the marble-floored lobby with jars of candy, lots of vases of fresh flowers and the impressive artwork collection (some original Picasso, Alexander Calder and Murano glass artist Pino Signoretto).

Resort-style casual is acceptable day and night. In the evening, men wear trousers, a collared shirt and optional jacket; shorts and T-shirts are not appreciated in the restaurant for dinner. For women, summery dresses, skirts or nice pants and top are fine for all occasions. At the welcome and farewell festivities, men should wear dark trousers, a button-down shirt and sport coat (or jacket and tie --although you could get away with not wearing the latter), while women can opt for a cocktail dress or elegant pantsuit. A low heel or flat shoes are easier than high heels on a moving ship. Passengers who don't wish to change for dinner can dine casually in Schubert's café or order room service. There are no formal nights.

Europe's weather ranges from chilly and wet to hot and humid, so bring a rain jacket or coat (umbrellas are provided), hat and sunglasses. If you plan to use the gym, don't forget activewear. Walking shoes are recommended for shore excursions.

S.S. Beatrice Inclusions

The fare includes all meals (except in Max's), drinks (excluding premium wines), 24-hour room service, shore excursions, Wi-Fi, exercise classes, bicycle rental, entertainment, lectures, self-service laundry, in-cabin movies and gratuities for onboard crew and tour guides. There is a self-serve coffee machine (near the stairs on Deck 4), as well as tea facilities, jars of cookies and candy, and a water dispenser with three nozzles for a choice of chilled, sparkling or room temperature. The only extra expenses are optional, such as massages and other spa treatments, laundry and pressing service (if you don't want to use the free laundry), a few premium brands of wine and alcohol, and a small selection of additional tours. It's very possible to not spend another cent above the cruise fare. The onboard currency is the euro.

Each day sees a choice of shore excursions or the option to take an independent bicycle ride along the riverside path. While onboard, most passengers enjoy reading, napping, chatting over a coffee in the bar or café and sightseeing from the sun deck. A few activities and lectures are held when the ship is sailing and light entertainment is provided in the lounge at night.

Shore Excursions

Passengers can choose one free daily excursion from two or three options. These half-day and full-day tours are conducted by local English-speaking guides through a QuietVox system with the commentary transmitted through an earpiece. "Go Active" bicycle rides are offered some days, using the ship's own pedal-powered (non-electric) bikes or a local bicycle tour company. The next day's excursions are described in the lounge each evening so that less mobile passengers can decide if the pace, number of stairs or cobblestone streets are suitable.

Shore excursions include full-day and half-day tours in cities or the countryside incorporating many stops such as a museum, monastery, winery, palace, castle, archaeological site, farm or school visit, as well as shorter guided walks offering information about the local history, culture and politics. “Do as the locals do” walking tours visit less touristy venues such as markets, cafes and a ride on the public transport. Additional and customizable excursions are available for an extra fee.

Daytime and Evening Entertainment

Complimentary onboard activities include a welcome dinner, farewell dinner, lectures and a pianist who plays background music in Wolfgang's lounge in the late afternoon. At night, there are livelier performances by a local choir, dancers, singers and bands. In Budapest, don't miss the exclusive concert by renowned pianist Balázs Bakos held in the lounge before dinner.

Enrichment

Free lectures about the region's culture and history are presented in the lounge on some days. Two talks by a Serbian expert were particularly comprehensive and enlightening. A Bulgarian yogurt tasting is held on another day.

S.S. Beatrice Bars and Lounges

It takes the whole week for some passengers to discover there are two bars on Beatrice because all organized activities are held in the main lounge. So, here's the scoop: A never-mentioned second bar is hidden in the corner of Max's restaurant at the back of the ship.

Wolfgang's (Deck 4): This social hub of the ship has been delightfully refurbished in yacht-like style with light wood, blue and white themes. All passengers gather here 15 minutes before dinner to hear the briefing about the next day's activities and excursions; some arrive an hour early for a pre-dinner cocktail, wine or gin and tonic. It's also the hot spot for drinks and dancing after dinner, generally wrapping up between 10 p.m. and midnight. A duo performs popular songs from the 1960s to current day, and local performers come onboard in some ports to showcase traditional dancing and music. The lounge is also used for tea and coffee during the day.

Max's (Deck 4): More mini than max, this new bar has only two stools. There are many tables and chairs in the wider room but we never saw anyone use them. This makes Max's ideal for anyone wanting a quiet drink alone or a romantic drink for two. The lonely bartender would welcome the company. We also used the empty venue to read during the day as it is the quietest nook on the ship and has outlets and USB ports all over the place. It's also one of the most beautiful areas, with lot of natural light, blue leather seating and chic tiled floors.

S.S. Beatrice Outside Recreation

Almost stretching the length of the ship, the expansive top deck has plenty of sun lounges, tables and chairs. About half of the seating is under shade. There are no games, pools, hot tubs or bars but it is possible to walk or jog around it (after 8 a.m. and before 10 p.m.).

S.S. Beatrice Services

At the base of the new staircase is the ship's redesigned lobby where passengers can speak to guest services staff and book excursions and spa treatments. The cruise manager is available for one hour per day at the hospitality desk. In one corner is a cabinet containing a selection of jewellery, sunglasses, watches and branded clothing for sale. The ship also has free Wi-Fi (when the satellite signal is strong enough), currency exchange (USD to euro) and postage stamps. Unusual for a river vessel, a complimentary self-service laundry is equipped with washers, dryers and an iron, and free detergent is available from the front desk. A laundry and pressing service is also offered for a per-item fee (free for suite passengers). Suite passengers receive butler service; two butlers are shared between the 16 suites.

Serenity River Spa is the same size as a standard cabin, which is fine for the range of massages offered. The cost is 50 euro for 30 minutes, 90 euro for 60 minutes or 130 euro for 90 minutes. Other treatments include a man or woman's facial and body exfoliation. One passenger declared the therapist as the best masseur she's ever had.

The gym is in a small room on Deck 2. Equipment has been upgraded from a couple of machines and a fitball to two new exercise bikes, two steppers, a rower, weights, medicine balls and yoga mats. Pedal-powered bikes and Nordic walking sticks can also be taken off the ship for independent exploring along the riverside paths (reservations are advised but not necessary). Every morning at 7 a.m., in the lounge or on the sun deck, the wellness coach leads a complimentary morning class such as yoga, meditation, gentle stretching or a riverside walk. More vigorous yoga, boot camp, running and jumping classes may be held for passengers seeking a tougher workout but we saw no evidence during our cruise.

Dining is possibly the most enjoyable aspect of S.S. Beatrice. The food is fresh, tasty and varied, the service is impeccable and the convivial atmosphere in sophisticated venues is a joy. There are five ways to eat onboard: in the main restaurant, the café, the lounge, cooking with the chef and room service.

Free Dining

Mozart's (Deck 3): The main dining room is open for breakfast and lunch, offered buffet style, and à la carte dinner, served by waiters, a sommelier and the wonderful restaurant manager. By day, it's a bright and pleasant space with lots of natural light beaming through numerous floor-to-ceiling windows. In the evening it's a lively collection of dinner parties taking place at tables for two, four and six (or seven or eight if you ask nicely). Reservations are not required and seating is open.

The room is elegantly arranged with white tablecloths, fresh flowers and blue leather chairs. Interacting with the staff is a big part of Beatrice's dining experience. The Mozart team is unfailingly friendly, efficient and professional, while some have a great sense of humour. All dietary requests and food allergies can be catered for.

Breakfast (usually served from 7:30 to 9 a.m.) offers a hot and cold selection of scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans, grilled vegetables, breads, pastries, cold meats, cheeses, smoked salmon, yogurt, fruit, French toast, pancakes, smoothies and fresh juices. A smiling chef is on hand to make delicious omelette, fried eggs, poached eggs or waffles. Hidden in plain sight is an ice bucket of Champagne and orange juice, if you feel like a morning mimosa.

The lunch buffet provides a wide variety of entrées, which are never repeated over a week's cruise. Hot options include pasta, fish, red meat, chicken and vegetable dishes. Sides include cold meats and fish, salads, mini-sandwiches and a daily soup. The dessert counter has a changing variety of cakes, ice cream, cheese and crackers.

Dinner starts at 7 or 7:30 p.m. Diners can choose a starter, soup, main and dessert. Light starters might include a dainty Balkan meze plate, crab cake, beet salad or roasted eggplant on grilled pita. Tasty soups include local flavours such as paprika goulash and Hungarian fish soup as well as consommés and creamy concoctions of carrot, ginger, bell pepper or pea. Mains are standard offerings of pasta, seafood, steak, chicken, beef and vegetarian dishes. Our favourite desserts were a chocolate slider, banana split, lemon meringue and bread pudding.

Three different European cheeses and three flavours of ice cream are offered each day, as well as regional wines from Hungary, Bulgaria, Romania and Austria. Most people drink the suggested red or white wine but diners are free to have complimentary beer, spirts or cocktails with meals. Premium wines can also be purchased. Glasses are topped up regularly.

Schubert's (Deck 4): An 18-seat café offering a quieter alternative to the main restaurant and bar. Located at the bow, adjoining the lounge, Schubert's replaces much of the outdoor deck which is now a smaller area with four benches. Enclosed with wraparound windows, the indoors venue is a casual one for a light lunch or dinner showcasing local flavours.

At midday, a table is laid with a large pot of soup, fruit, potato salad, pretzels and cold cuts of meat for passengers to help themselves. Served from 7 to 9 p.m., dishes to share include Austrian beef bouillon, Hungarian chicken with paprika and spätzle, tafelspitz (root vegetables and potatoes with freshly grated horseradish and chives), wiener schnitzel, Sacher cakes with whipped cream and Uniworld's popular Mrs. Tollman's honeycomb ice cream. The evening menu is the same every day.

Between meals, a few passengers use it as a reading room while others come to chat over tea or coffee, so it may not be completely peaceful, especially as the staff are often clinking cups and plates while preparing drinks and snacks. Classical music is softly piped through the room, which is nicely separated from the rest of the ship, so it can be relaxing if you manage to get it to yourself.

Room Service: Twenty-four-hour room service should only be used when nothing else is open. The limited menu consists of a wiener würstl (not far removed from a hot dog), saftgulasch (goulash soup in a bread tureen), a triple ham and cheese sandwich on white bread with crisps, a salad, and Sacher cake with whipped cream. Only the first three items are available from 9 p.m. to 7 a.m. Breakfast can also be ordered to your room from 7 to 11 a.m. Choose from apple, orange or grapefruit juice plus a basket filled with a croissant, chocolate pastry and Danish pastry, yogurt, fruit, jam, honey and butter.

Wolfgang's (Deck 3): Tea, coffee, snacks and evening canapes are served in the lounge.

Fee Dining

Max's (Deck 4); 50–90 euros: This new dinner venue replaces the former Captain's Lounge and part of the outdoor deck at the ship's stern. While it is spacious in size, it is intimate in ambience. The stylish room has a modern, tiled floor that matches the blue leather seating and white tables, blue wall lanterns and white curtains on wraparound windows. In one corner is a rectangular table for 10 and a kitchen where the chef prepares dinner, observed and assisted by the exclusive group of diners.

Unlike other vessels, the decor is not the same in every cabin. Far from neutral, Beatrice is not afraid of color, patterns and valuable art. Blue, gold and white are common palettes, with matching silk wallpaper and duvets. Standard rooms are compact yet comfortable, while the suites are noticeably more spacious and opulent. Another Owner's Suite and two Grand Suites have been added, while four cabins were reconfigured into two family rooms with a door in between them.

All rooms have new, handmade Savoir beds, which are snug and cushy, with soft, padded mattresses, European duvets, plush pillows and Egyptian cotton linens. A pillow menu allows alternative choices such as neck support or memory foam. The bed has a pull-out drawer and enough space underneath for suitcases. There is more storage in bedside tables, a wide dresser, wardrobe and safe.

Filtered water and jars of chocolates and cookies are replenished daily. A sumptuous bathrobe and slippers, as well as an umbrella, are provided for use throughout your cruise. Individually controlled thermostats allow passengers to manage the warmth or coolness or switch off the air conditioning.

Creating a sense of more space, one wall is all mirrors, which also encases the flat-screen television. The television is loaded with free movies, 40 satellite channels (such as CNN, BBC, MTV, Eurosport), radio stations, ship information, your onboard account and Bluetooth connectivity so you can connect your device to play your own music. The water-facing wall has a French balcony (sliding floor-to-ceiling windows) or a picture window, depending on the cabin category. None of the rooms or suites have walkout balconies.

White marble bathrooms are stocked with Asprey-branded soap, shampoo, body lotion and shower gel. You'll also find a hair dryer, magnifying mirror and vanity set containing shower cap, cotton pads, cotton tips, emery board and sewing kit. Ample storage is provided on shelves and the vanity and its two deep drawers. All rooms have a walk-in shower; four of the top suites also have freestanding baths. The water pressure is good and adjustable; we found the temperature fluctuated slightly while we showered.

Classic: Categories 4 and 5 on Deck 2 are the entry-level cabins, measuring 150 square feet (14 square meters) with standard windows.

French Balcony: Also 150 square feet, these rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows that slide open. Deluxe (Category 1) is located on the convenient and highest Deck 4, while Category 2 and 3 cabins are on Decks 2 and 3. The dresser incorporates a desk or dressing table with a stool, and there is a freestanding small table and chair.

Family/Interconnecting: There are two new sets of connecting rooms for families, which could also be booked by two couples of groups of friends wanting to stay next to each other. These are the same size as standard staterooms but simply have an internal door in between two cabins. The door can be closed for privacy or opened to create a flowing space.

Junior Suite: For more space around the bed, butler service, a free mini-bar, fresh fruit plus coffee machine, these 12 bigger suites are recommended. At 225 square feet (21 square meters), the extra area allows a second wardrobe, a small table and two chairs, and another window as well as the French balcony. It is one large room, as opposed to two separated rooms of the higher category suites. The bathrooms are a little bigger and the upgraded brand of toiletries is Hermes.

The mini-bar is stocked and replenished daily with complimentary miniatures of spirits, Baileys, beer, sodas and juices. Two bottles of red wine (French and South African) and three decanters full of vodka, scotch and brandy are also housed in the cabinet so you can make your own drinks in the lovely crystal glasses to enjoy privately in your suite.

Grand Suite: A new category, these two top-end suites span 310 square feet each (28.8 square meters). In addition to the amenities provided in the Junior Suites, a Grand Suite has a living area with double sofa, coffee table and second television that unfolds from the ceiling. The bedroom is separate from the living room. The larger bathroom has a bigger vanity with two basins, a rain shower and a bathtub, plus a secluded toilet area offering river views out the window (frosted glass from ground to shoulder level, clear from eye level and up, with a pull-down blind).

Owner's/Royal Suite: The most prized accommodation, the two largest suites stretch to 390 square feet (36.2 square metres). Closest to the lounge and dining areas on Deck 4, they have the same amenities as a Grand Suite but bigger, separate rooms and the most decadent décor.

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